Vietri sul Mare, the sea’s poetry and the colours of the ceramic

Places
Today with our Salernitan diary we visit Vietri sul Mare, the ‘gateway’ to the Amalfi coast and world famous for its traditional ceramics. All Vietri’s life revolves around the ceramics, the artisans who create them, the workshops where they are produced and the tourists who arrive from all around the world to admire and buy them

The Ceramists’ heritage

The colours of the ceramic

Let’s go through the narrow streets lined with the workshops full of ceramics of every shape and colour and after a few meters our eyes are already enchanted by the displays where it is possible to assist in one of the workshops: an older man, the artisan, is working on the ceramic. We approach discreetly, not wishing to disturb this atmosphere in which it seems that time has stopped and we find ourselves transported back another century. There is a hint of tradition, of history and being in the presence of great beauty. We hesitate a little bit at the entrance, then the artisan invites us in and introduces himself. His name is Matteo and he has worked with ceramics for more than fifty years.

We look around the workshop a little and he allows us to do so . He doesn’t try to sell us anything while we are admiring tiles, dishes, glasses, jugs,pitchers, tiny cups, majolicated tables and a massive variety of different objects. We wonder at the similarities between the colours painted on the ceramics and that of the coast: the intense blue of the sky and the sea, the yellow of the sun and the lemons, the iconic fruit of this land.

The yellow colour comes from the lemon but also from a community of German artists who, since the beginning of 1900 established themselves in Vietri, due to the low cost of life and the warm climate . This so called ‘ German Period’ generated an evolution about the manufacturing of the ceramic and the creation of new chromatic combinations between the ceramic and the“giallo di Vietri” (Vietri’s yellow). According to some, the ceramics arrived in Vietri around the V century B.C. with the Etruscans, according to others, they arrived in the late Renaissance thanks to the Sanseverino’ Princes.

The land of “riggiole”

With a little regret we leave this treasure and direct ourselves to two places where we can admire the ceramics: the first is the Museo provinciale della Ceramica (museum), in which are stored ceramics for daily and religious use and a part of the manufacturing of the ‘German Period’. The other place is the Manifacture of Ceramica Solimene, where the building itself is an artwork, due to the fact that it is formed by eight towers completely upholstered with ceramic products.

Throughout this path the ‘riggiole’ tiles are diffused everywhere through the narrow streets of Vietri.

The riggiole have become an icon for the small town and it’s possible to find them quite simply everywhere strolling through the streets . The legend says that it was the Aragonensis King Alfonso il Magnanimo who wanted to import into the Kingdom of Naples the art of manufacturing of the rajoletes, the majolics that were used to adorn his palaces in Spain. Therefore, he invited to Italy some Spanish masters to teach this art to the artisans of the Kingdom. So the word 'riggiole’ has its origins from rajoletes.

On the way back, we notice this riggiola in the corner of a building facing the sea: on this riggiola is painted the landscape that one can see from Vietri, the same view is possible to admire directing our eyes to the horizon.

These two beauties intertwine themselves: while observing this ceramic it’s like stopping to admire the landscape, both are experiences that make you lost in its beauty.

The beauty that stops the time.

 

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